Ancient Art

Date: February 18, 2015
Destination: Volcanic Tablelands
Cost: Gas only

I was traveling northward to celebrate a big birthday - 60 to be exact. (Wow, I can actually say it.) I wanted to impart meaning to this milestone, and also to come to grips with my impermanence, so I decided to visit the Red Canyon Petroglyphs, just north of Bishop.

The high desert east of the Sierra Nevada is fine rock art territory, with panels created by Paiute-Shoshone perhaps as far back as 9,000 years ago. The most astounding array is in the Coso Mountains, on the protected land of the China Lake Naval Air Weapons Station. These glyphs can only be viewed on guided tours led by the Maturango Museum. But the Volcanic Tablelands north of Bishop have some awe-inspiring panels on basaltic outcroppings scattered throughout the sagebrush plain. They're easily accessible and therefore subject to theft and vandalism.

Because of this, public agencies prefer not to put the locations of this ancient art out on websites, but instead ask that visitors stop by the information center in Bishop, where they will provide directions. This way, they can see the faces of those planning to visit, which deters harm.

It was a climate-change warm February afternoon when I arrived, without so much as a whisper of a breeze - rare for this locale. A family had parked nearby, and kids were scrambling over rocks at one end of the parking area, so I went in the opposite direction and stopped at one of my favorite panels.

I love that some of this art is so identifiable (bighorn, footprint, man) and some is so abstract (spaceship? map? mantra?) Why were these ancient people here? What were their thoughts? What were their lives like? The glyphs offer more questions than answers. Through some casual research I've learned that these sites were probably visited by shamans and the rock carvings were often part of rituals which included the use of natural hallucinogenics. It's likely these outings coincided with hunting events and maybe this art was created to appease the gods or rally the troops. The power of these carvings  lies in the fact that we can never know and must extract our own meaning.

I left the main site and began walking eastward toward the majestic Sierra. The views behind me of Chalfant Valley, Boundary Peak and the White Mountains were awesome. I'd heard that there are many rock art sites on the Tablelands that aren't marked with kiosks and parking areas and you just need to wander around the outcroppings to find them - so I began doing this. In the past, this has not been a successful experiment, but today I found a solitary design at the top of a plateau that intrigued me. It looked something like this:

This clearly meant something to the artist - but could it mean something to me? The best I could come up with is that home contains a person, a hearth and water - and you can carry this with you. Not a bad sentiment from a rock.

Blub Blub

Date: February 6, 2015

Destination: Mrs. Fish

Cost: $13.00 plus gas

I descended down the staircase into the heart of the new DTLA. Surrounding me were the pretty people of the city, and above me hung a large aquarium - its bright inhabitants gliding through water like the dolled-up guests in the club I'd just entered. Lush gold-fringed curtains lined the walls and kitschy furniture was placed strategically. It felt like a movie set.

I had come to Mrs. Fish to hear a musician-friend play. I love opportunities like these to visit venues I'd normally not seek out. Located in Pershing Square, adjacent to the popular bar, Perch, all that's noticeable from the street are large black double doors and a small sign, attended by a bouncer and a velvet rope. It was early in the evening - the set was to start at eight - and I'd had the good fortune to find free street parking right around the corner.

Once inside, I was relieved to find a mixed crowd (even two seniors), but patrons skewed toward young professionals. Many men were attired in suits and most women donned the current uniform of skintight short knit dresses and staggering pumps. I hung out at the bar, nursing a Mirror Pond from Deschutes Brewery and listening to a band fronted by Mina Ledesma, which did not include my friend.

I swam through the three-leveled club, like the fish above me, and found a nice seat at the downstairs bar with a view of the stage. I pulled out my phone, double checked facebook posts and realized my friend had performed here the night before. Oops. As consolation, the friendly bartender introduced himself, thanked me for "gracing his bar," and offered up a free refill of my brew. The night had been slow so far, he explained.

I stayed and people-watched for a while and then took a stroll outside around Pershing Square. Wandering into the Biltmore Hotel, I enjoyed the glorious architecture and  the historical photos of Academy Award ceremonies long past. The lounge was grooving with a jazz combo and lots of patrons, which gave me ideas for a future Saturday night. I was able to walk in to the grand ballrooms and remember the elegant weddings and events I'd been fortunate to attend there decades ago.

Before too long, it was time to jump back on the 101, happy in the knowledge that I would no longer be intimidated by the downtown club scene. 

Elvis is in the Building

Dates:  November 29, 2014 & January 23, 2015

Destination: Hard Rock Hotel & Casino and Red Rock Resort, Las Vegas

Cost: $8 plus gas            

I was in Las Vegas with a bunch of guy friends. After a tasty dinner at Culinary Dropout at the Hard Rock Hotel, the boys decided to go to Ellis Island Casino to play craps. I chose to stick around and peruse the rock and roll memorabilia. Is Mick Jagger really that small? His suit sure looked tiny. Likewise for David Bowie. And the Kiss getups featured some incredible needlecraft. I enjoyed studying old posters from British music festivals located in the elevator banks.

As I wandered past Vinyl, I could see a band playing inside and a sign outside saying "no cover." For me, that's code for "check it out."  On stage was a group with mixed personas: a lead singer in black leather with a starched faux-hawk, a dapper bass player wearing a tailored vest and slacks topped with a fedora, and a fiddle player in a cowboy hat. A friend later dubbed them the Vegas Village People. Their music was a little mixed up, too - strong classic rock melodies with some country twang thrown in.

It didn’t take long to be drawn in to the world of Elvis Monroe. Their musicianship was at a higher level than the average Vegas lounge act. When lead singer, Bryan Hopkins, began introducing his band mates: guitarist Ben Carey (formerly of Lifehouse), drummer Ryan MacMillan (from Matchbox Twenty) and violinist David Pichette (from country band Emerson Drive), I understood why.

This event was the release party for their new single "Rebel" and the audience included the local Fox News team, other local musicians and Bryan's mom. I blended right in with the all-ages crowd, which was a mix of locals and tourists. The mid-sized club was comfortable with an industrial edge. I stayed for the entire show and had a great time.

Curious if I had been seduced by Elvis Monroe at Hard Rock, I decided to catch another concert when I returned to Sin City for a meeting last weekend. It didn't take long to acknowledge that they were the real deal. Yeah, they're slick and commercial, but their melodies are undeniably catchy, delivered with a high level of showmanship. They deliver a "feel good" show with a warm heart and plenty of spirit - perfect for a night when you want to call a friend, grab a Stella and chill for a while. A woman in the audience freaked out when she realized Bryan Hopkins was her former waiter at a Toluca Lake restaurant. He handled this discovery with grace and good humor, but then again, his mom was in the room. 

Private Showing

December 28, 2014

Destination: Monterey Museum of Art–La Mirada

Cost: Gas only

Another episode from the road:

After seeing the film National Gallery, I was jonesing for a visit to an art museum. On my way back to L.A. from the Bay Area, I decided to detour off the 101 and cruise the coast highway from Pacifica to Monterey. The Monterey Museum of Art’s main gallery downtown was closed for renovations, but the La Mirada outpost next to Monterey Peninsula College was open, so off I went. Even better, due to a special fundraising exhibit at the gallery, they were waiving the entrance fee.

It was a beautiful Sunday morning during the holiday vacation break, and I was surprised that there were no cars in the parking lot. Since I arrived a little ahead of the 11:00 a.m. opening time, I spent a few minutes strolling the small, but well tended hillside rhododendron garden. I thought perhaps the gallery was closed, since no other cars arrived, but I ventured to the entrance and was greeted warmly.

I've never had a whole art gallery to myself, and it was a luxurious experience. I could spend as long or as little time as I wanted at any painting, without worrying about blocking someone’s view. The peace and quiet were very conducive to absorbing the works, with the hope of gleaning the artist’s intent.

There was a lot worth seeing. The large front room of this former adobe (dating back to the early 1800’s) housed a collection of California landscapes, better than many I had seen. I was thrilled with the Warren Chang exhibit due to his realistic, light-infused style, inspired by Vermeer. Finally, I spent some time in the fundraising gallery looking at “Miniatures.” Local artists had donated very small works in a variety of media - oil, watercolor, collage, sculpture and shadowboxes. This exhibit was a raffle - one could purchase tickets for $5.00 and deposit them in a box beneath the artwork of choice, then a drawing would be held at the conclusion of the exhibit. These tiny works ranged from brilliant to boring - but what a clever fundraising idea.

Back outside, I lingered in the sunbathed rose garden, imagining what it must have been like to live in this lovely Spanish casita before it was turned into a public space. Then, I left this tranquil outpost and ventured to Cannery Row, packed with hundreds of tourists visiting trinket shops and slurping ice cream cones. They’d missed a wonderful experience. I'm so grateful we don’t all like the same thing.      

Spirited Laughter

Date: January 7, 2015

Destination: Ahmanson Theatre, Downtown Los Angeles

Cost: $48.00 (two dinners & drinks)

Sometimes you just get lucky. I’d wanted to see Blithe Spirit at the Ahmanson for many reasons. I love the work of Noël Coward, having performed in Hay Fever twice. We put on Blithe Spirit in high school (I was costuming assistant) and I’ve seen good productions of the show since then at the Pasadena Playhouse and Utah Shakespeare Festival. I’m a big Downtun Abbey fan and the Ahmanson production featured Charles Edwards (who plays Lady Edith’s lover in the PBS show) as the lead character, Charles Condomine. And who wouldn't want to see Angela Lansbury perform live on stage at the age of 89?

But tickets were pricey, and my New Year’s resolution was to balance my budget, so I was resigned to missing this show. Until my friend Sarah called. Her neighbor was a season ticket holder at the Music Center, and her husband wasn’t interested in attending the play. She generously offered to treat me to the ticket! Sarah and her husband have season tickets as well and we’d all go together.

We agreed to meet up early to have dinner at FIGat7TH pre-show. City Tavern is a favorite of Sarah’s and I can see why: the pastrami burger is to die for! It’s a typically trendy gastropub, with exposed brick walls and whimsical chalkboard drawings, and, naturally, an excellent selection of craft brews. We arrived during “hoppy hour”, so there was special pricing on well drinks, suds, wines and some snacks.  We all enjoyed our meals and the friendly service.

As the curtain rose at the Ahmanson, we knew we were in for a treat. The beautifully detailed set and stylized acting set the tone for England in the early forties. Billowing sheer curtains became a metaphor for ephemeral spirits. Coward’s comedic masterpiece has lost none of its sharp wit in the seventy years since it originally debuted. The most amazing supernatural feat was Angela Lansbury’s performance as Madame Arcati. As a consummate professional, one expects her to bring sharp detail to a role, but the vitality, dead-on comic timing and vigorous physical humor she brought to the stage was inspiring. It helped me realize how many productive years we can have if we are blessed with good genes and take care of ourselves. And it’s very healthy to have a good, strong laugh.

Free Ball

Date: January 3, 2014

Destination: Pauley Pavilion, Westwood

Cost: $1.00 plus gas

It’s worthwhile to pay attention to your email inbox. Buried in the World Market ads and travel newsletters, I found a voucher for four free tickets to a UCLA women’s basketball game. Since I like basketball, UCLA and women (not in that way), I headed over Benedict Canyon to Westwood for the 5:00 p.m. start.

Since school was in recess for the holidays, it was easy to find free parking on Gayley Ave., which made for a short walk to the beautifully upgraded Pauley Pavilion. It’s hard to believe the shining wood floor was flooded by the huge water main break on Sunset Blvd. just a few months ago. Once inside, it was apparent why the tickets were free – the game against Oregon State University was sparsely attended – primarily by families, but there were some students there, a vocal OSU contingent and some die-hard women’s basketball fans.

Despite the small turn-out, the game felt like a big deal.The cheer squad showed tons of enthusiasm - their feats of balance and strength have come a long way since I attended college in the seventies. The big screen above the scoreboard was used to entertain fans by displaying player profiles and brief interviews, bingo numbers, and kids in the audience wildly dancing for the camera. There were lots of freebies going out to the small crowd, with water bottles and t-shirts hurled into the stands by cheer team members and a jewelry giveaway during the halftime break.

The Bruin women played with a lot of heart but had a hard time finding the basket, with a mere 25% shooting ratio. It didn’t help that the Amazonian OSU women were top-ranked and hit so many three pointers that they became invincible. The Bruin highlight was the heads-up play of Nirra Fields, who scored twenty points and passed the 1,000 point collegiate career mark that evening. In the end, Oregon State topped the Bruins, 65-47.

Despite the loss, I had fun. I munched on a $1.00 hot dog (another perk provided by the   e-mail coupon) and the bear mascot, Josie Bruin, plopped down in front of me in the stands while interacting with fans.I think the UCLA promotion did the trick: I’m hooked, and plan to return to Pauley for more women’s hoops. 

The Art of Christmas

Date: December 25, 2014

Destination: Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center

Cost: $7.75 plus gas

(I ventured to NorCal for the Christmas holidays and did some exploring a little further afield.)

The crumpled holiday wrappings were in the corner, the Christmas Eve turkey had been made into tetrazzini, the socializing with friends and family was winding down. After two days as a houseguest, I was ready for a respite. I noticed the Rafael Film Center earlier in the day while visiting the nearby San Rafael Arcangel mission in downtown San Rafael. A documentary about the National Gallery art museum in London was scheduled for that evening and I couldn’t resist leaving the holiday gathering for a few hours of mental stimulation to help banish the turkey-induced L-tryptophan coma. I’d visited the National a few times in my twenties, and remembered that it showcased major works of baroque art (Rubens, Rembrandt, Vermeer), a subject I had studied briefly in college.

I was offered a senior rate without asking (a mixed blessing) and entered the beautiful facility. I was caught off guard by the luxury of the theater; spotlessly clean with a meticulously restored art deco interior. During the pre-show, I could tell the projection and sound quality was top-notch. The Smith Rafael is the home of the California Film Institute – the group that puts on the Mill Valley Film Festival.

National Gallery was made by acclaimed documentarian Frederick Wiseman, who at 85 has not lost his clarity or insight. It explored every aspect of this whale of an institution, from board meetings to applying the gold leaf on restored frames. The film also examined a major exhibit on the works of Leonardo DaVinci. The camera leisurely settled on shots of paintings by great masters, along with narrative from docents and scholars. Some of the faces of the ordinary folks absorbing the art reflected their awe and appreciation, while others were clearly distracted. Being afforded the opportunity to see so many extraordinary paintings blown up to movie-screen size made watching this film three-hour film worthwhile. It was fascinating to learn the workings of this iconic museum.

I walked out into the cold Christmas night inspired and grateful. How lucky we are to have beautiful art museums in this world – and great documentary filmmakers to explore non-commercial themes. Seeing this film was a lovely Christmas gift to myself.