The Art of Christmas

Date: December 25, 2014

Destination: Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center

Cost: $7.75 plus gas

(I ventured to NorCal for the Christmas holidays and did some exploring a little further afield.)

The crumpled holiday wrappings were in the corner, the Christmas Eve turkey had been made into tetrazzini, the socializing with friends and family was winding down. After two days as a houseguest, I was ready for a respite. I noticed the Rafael Film Center earlier in the day while visiting the nearby San Rafael Arcangel mission in downtown San Rafael. A documentary about the National Gallery art museum in London was scheduled for that evening and I couldn’t resist leaving the holiday gathering for a few hours of mental stimulation to help banish the turkey-induced L-tryptophan coma. I’d visited the National a few times in my twenties, and remembered that it showcased major works of baroque art (Rubens, Rembrandt, Vermeer), a subject I had studied briefly in college.

I was offered a senior rate without asking (a mixed blessing) and entered the beautiful facility. I was caught off guard by the luxury of the theater; spotlessly clean with a meticulously restored art deco interior. During the pre-show, I could tell the projection and sound quality was top-notch. The Smith Rafael is the home of the California Film Institute – the group that puts on the Mill Valley Film Festival.

National Gallery was made by acclaimed documentarian Frederick Wiseman, who at 85 has not lost his clarity or insight. It explored every aspect of this whale of an institution, from board meetings to applying the gold leaf on restored frames. The film also examined a major exhibit on the works of Leonardo DaVinci. The camera leisurely settled on shots of paintings by great masters, along with narrative from docents and scholars. Some of the faces of the ordinary folks absorbing the art reflected their awe and appreciation, while others were clearly distracted. Being afforded the opportunity to see so many extraordinary paintings blown up to movie-screen size made watching this film three-hour film worthwhile. It was fascinating to learn the workings of this iconic museum.

I walked out into the cold Christmas night inspired and grateful. How lucky we are to have beautiful art museums in this world – and great documentary filmmakers to explore non-commercial themes. Seeing this film was a lovely Christmas gift to myself.

Echoes of a Saturday Night

Date:  December 13, 2014

Destination: The Echoplex, Echo Park

Cost: $30.90 plus gas

Thank goodness the room was so dark. Standing near the stage, you could barely tell if the person next to you was man or woman, so I felt less insecure about being older than my fellow patrons by about 35 years. The Echo Park club scene has stirred my curiosity, but I usually found an excuse to avoid it. Learning that Gardens & Villa was headlining at The Echoplex moved me to action.

I’d heard this Santa Barbara band when they opened for The Shins a few years ago. Any group which adds a wooden flute and didgeridoo-like textures to their synth-beats has my attention, so I mustered up some courage and bought a ticket in advance, knowing I’d wimp out otherwise.

Saturday night traffic was blessedly light, and I found free parking a few blocks from the club next to Echo Park Lake. The Echoplex is a large, minimally appointed venue – the black walls surround banquettes and cocktail tables. There are television screens near the back bar, so you can watch the show from the rear lounge if you don’t feel like standing up front. Drinks aren’t too overpriced and are quite strong. The club is described as a hipster den, but to me it just seemed like a place where a lot of kids go to hang out on Saturday night, the crowd mostly attired in jeans and hoodies. Besides being the oldest person there, I was also overdressed. Way to blend in.

But, like I mentioned, it was dark, so I got over it and focused on the music. TV Girl started the evening with sunny electronic surf pop. Next up was the performance-art inspired musical stylings of Geneva Jacuzzi (the former girlfriend of Ariel Pink), who I found pretentious. She’s probably great at Burning Man if you’re on crazy drugs. Finally, at 11:45, Gardens & Villa took the stage.  It was worth the wait – their self-proclaimed “coco-vibes” were as chill as I remembered. They put on a poignant performance, since they were losing their founding drummer, Levi Hayden, and this would be his last show. Frontman Chris Lynch has a cool energy which carried the evening as the audience sang along.

The crowd spilled out onto Glendale Blvd after 1:00 a.m., so there was no traffic on the drive home. I was happy to have conquered the Echo Park club scene and won’t be afraid to return, although I’ll dress a little grubbier next time.

Ho Ho Ho

Date: December 14, 2014

Destination: Sierra Madre Playhouse

Cost:  $49.45 plus gas (theatre ticket and two meals)

We can usually use a little push to get us into the holiday spirit. An easy path to December jolliness can be found by attending a live holiday performance, whether it’s a ballet school’s The Nutcracker, a community chorale singing carols or a local play. My friend, Jim, had been cast in the Sierra Madre Playhouse production of “A Little House Christmas” which provided the perfect chance to head to this San Gabriel Valley burgh for some holiday cheer.

With tickets in hand for a Sunday matinee, I arrived early to snoop around and grab a bite to eat. Sierra Madre was founded in 1881 and incorporated in 1907, so the main shopping district is historic and reflects on a gentler time, free from chain stores and drive-ins. The village sits at the base of the rugged San Gabriel Mountains and its insular quaintness reminds me of Ojai. On this warm afternoon, the restaurants were buzzing with outdoor diners and shoppers browsed the hip boutiques in search of Christmas gifts. I was struck by the friendliness of the locals, who greeted me with smiles and hellos. I picked up a tasty pre-made ciabatta sandwich from Bean Town Coffee House and sat outside so that I could people watch.

As curtain time approached, I met my friend, Mirth, and we queued up at the playhouse box office with the stylishly-attired patrons. Once inside the well-kept theater, I was struck by the high quality of the stage set, rare in many tightly budgeted community theater productions. “A Little House Christmas” is based on the Laura Ingalls Wilder books, and the script, adapted by James DeVita, honors those works, taking the dialogue verbatim from the printed page. The director, Emily Chase, made the smart decision to add music – so there are scenes with Christmas carols, fiddle playing and even a whirligig dance number. The production has the lightness of a holiday divinity candy, well acted by a multi-talented ensemble.

Midway through the first act, I thought it unfortunate that there weren't more youngsters in attendance. What an effortless way to introduce children to the joy of live theater! As the house lights came up at intermission, I noticed that nearly half the audience was kids. They were so enthralled that they hadn't made a peep!  

Post-show,  Jim and two castmates joined me and Mirth at Lucky Baldwin's Pub, where I quaffed a brew and enjoyed a sausage roll in Merry Olde England style. It was great to watch the actors light up as we lavished praise upon them, a fitting holiday gift. Mission accomplished: the afternoon in Sierra Madre got me in the Christmas mood. 

Musical NoHo

December 5, 2014

Destination: Kulak’s Woodshed

Cost: $10.00 plus gas

It was Friday night, and I found myself sitting in a very funky room which looked like a cross between a thrift shop and a garage apartment, hidden behind an old storefront on Laurel Canyon Blvd in North Hollywood. There was audio and video equipment everywhere and an assemblage of old Topanga Canyon hippies. My childhood neighbor, Linda, turned me on to Kulaks’ Woodshed and I was there to check out their monthly $10-by-donation First Friday event. 

Linda’s been coming here for years, and knew most of the audience members and performers. The room contained an assortment of mismatched chairs, sofas and even a bed, to settle in comfortably to watch the show, which is broadcast via a live, high quality webcast. Besides the First Friday gigs, Kulak’s hosts Monday open mic nights, regular performances and “Rent Club” when they need to raise money to keep the doors open.

I came to hear Severin Browne and Friends and opening act Janeen Rae Heller. Janeen was intriguing; a skilled guitar player with a beautiful voice (“She sings like an angel,” remarked Linda). Janeen played musical saw accompanied by piano in one number, which could have been background music in Star Trek heaven. Severin Browne (Jackson’s brother) and his group had that feel good, folksy, bar band vibe. They weren’t pushing any limits, but the talented musicians served up a satisfying show for their listening friends. 

Kulak’s isn’t exactly a music venue; it’s more like a community. It seemed like everyone knew each other and I was quickly welcomed into the fold. Linda explained that after her third or fourth visit, she was ceremoniously inducted into the “tribe.” I look forward to returning to the Woodshed, to hear non-threatening music in a quirky, warm environment.

Nobody Walks in L.A.

November 22, 2014
Destination: Great Los Angeles Walk 2014

Cost: $9.49

I toyed with joining the Great Los Angeles Walk last year when I was visiting for the weekend – but wimped out, even though the jaunt down Sunset Blvd. sounded like fun. This year, there was no excuse not to participate – since the departure point was about a mile from my new residence in the West Valley.

This annual event started nine years ago, when local journalist, Michael Schneider, marked his tenth anniversary in the City of Angels by coordinating a community walk along Wilshire Boulevard – from downtown to the sea. The goal was to get folks out cars, explore the city on foot and to build community along the way. Each ensuing year, on the Saturday before Thanksgiving, Michael gathers a throng of walkers to tackle a new thoroughfare.

This year’s event featured Ventura Blvd. and began at Warner Center Park – where the crowd was greeted with handouts of the route’s highlights, a Nudie Mobile was on display, and representatives from two Valley history museums presented some pre-stroll background. We were told this was a non-sanctioned, informal event – and if anything happens “you’re on your own.” At 9:00 a.m., after a group photo, we set off toward Ventura and settled into an easy stride on the shady south side of the street.

What a trip to walk past all the landmarks of my Valley Girl past – places where I worked, danced, ate, went on dates. So many places have gone – to be replaced by new businesses: some thriving, some struggling. It was fun to chat with the other amblers, who came from all over the city. When you’re sharing a journey, it’s easy to strike up a conversation with a stranger.

Due to time (and energy) constraints, I knew I wouldn’t complete the seventeen mile route to the Metro station in North Hollywood, but I was surprised at how fast the miles flew by. I peeled off at mile seven, to explore Los Encinos State Historic Park for the first time. Drinking in the warm sunshine of a perfect fall afternoon in the small citrus grove, I explored the adobe buildings, observed a variety of ducks near the fountains in the spring fed pond and rested my legs.

    

With a staggering appetite, I moseyed back to The Stand where I wolfed down an exceptional Chicago dog, small kale slaw and soda for under $8. Satisfied with my trek, I hopped on the Metro 150 bus to return to the starting point – determined to tackle the next stretch from Balboa Blvd to Laurel Canyon on another pleasant Valley day.

Turkish Troubles

November 10, 2014

Destination: AFI Fest, Hollywood

Cost: $4.50 plus gas

Another week, another film festival. This time it’s the AFI Fest – Los Angeles’ longest running filmfest, originally started as Filmex in 1971. The LA Times (one of the event’s sponsors) published a promotional insert/schedule in last week’s newspaper, and I quickly noticed that tickets for many of the films were free.

Say no more. I jumped online and procured a seat for an upcoming screening of The Blue Wave at the TCM Chinese Theatres. The subject matter was appealing – a tale of four teen girls in a mid-sized town in Turkey, going through the same sorts of growing-up problems that we all face. I hoped the 1:15 p.m. screening time meant I’d avoid traffic.

I arrived early, hoping to find a place in Hollywood to park for free. After scouring the residential streets below Runyon Canyon, I found that Hollywood Boulevard west of La Brea has unmetered parking from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Score! The film should be done by 3:15 p.m. and it was only a ten-minute walk to the theater.

Once in the Cineplex, I was surrounded by typical SoCal scenesters – including students, a few retirees and a Stewart Copeland lookalike. The film’s two female directors, Zeynep Dadak and Merve Kayan, welcomed us warmly and then the lights went down. The next two hours were spent following the life of Deniz in the small city of Balikesir. One of the best things about foreign films is that you can experience new places without the cost of airfare. 

The Blue Wave, explored the universality of teenage conundrums – planning for an unknown future, lusting after guys, making bad choices and worrying about the consequences. I enjoyed the film’s focus on the importance of music in teen lives – there were scenes with the girls dancing, sharing music on laptops with friends, practicing for a talent show and singing in the car. During the Q and A after the film, the directors explained that the soundtrack consisted of Turkish hits from the nineties, as well as new tunes penned for the film by kim ki o. The directors have previously filmed music videos, and this perspective is apparent in their first feature.

Back out among the tourists on Hollywood Boulevard, I made a quick walk four blocks east to Skooby’s Hot Dogs near the corner of Cherokee, across from Musso and Franks Grill. I ordered a garlic dog with sauerkraut and spicy mustard for $4.50, which was surprisingly delicious. I walked and ate my way back to the car, arriving just in time at 3:57 p.m. Who says you need to spend a lot of money to have a great afternoon in Hollywood?

Dia de los Muertos

November 2, 2014

Destination: Olvera Street

Cost: $6.25 plus gas

And so begins the march of the holidays. Now that Halloween is behind us, Thanksgiving will be here in about ten minutes and Christmas in about twenty.

I spent All Hallow’s Eve at the home of friends, greeting costumed kids in a popular West Hills neighborhood and chastising them if they didn’t follow proper protocol. York patties were only handed out after a “trick or treat” request. If a costume was unidentifiable, I grilled the youngsters about their identity. If they came “as themselves,” I suggested they try harder next year. Halloween is not a holiday that celebrates being nice – it’s about witches, right? Someone on facebook suggested a “Frozen” drinking game – in which you take a swig for every Elsa that shows up at the front door. Thank goodness we opted out – I would have been a blithering idiot by 6:15.

On Saturday, I ventured to Olvera Street for Dia de los Muertos. I found free parking on a hill above Chinatown (College Street) and discovered the Main Gateway and New Plaza for the first time. It was fun strolling past small shops along Broadway packed with lucky bamboo, Asian produce and cheap tourist trinkets on my way to the Los Angeles Plaza Historic District. I approached the main plaza by cutting through the courtyard at La Placita church – which was founded exactly 200 years ago.

Not surprisingly, there were throngs of visitors at El Pueblo that day. Aztec dancers were performing just as I arrived, exhibiting great energy as they jumped with ankle rattles to the beat of two drummers. There were also traditional shrines to the departed and a weirdly out of place skateboard demo. Cutting through the narrow merchant-lined alley to Cielito Lindo was an exercise in patience, and it took about a half hour of waiting in line to secure the prize – 3 taquitos with beans for $6.25. Worth the wait, and this allowed ample time to admire the creative skeleton facepaint sported by many festival-goers.

Back at the main plaza, a Peruvian-styled flutist played the Paul Simon song “El Condor Pasa (If I Could)” while homeless men slept in the sunshine on the inset brick benches lining the square. I strolled back to the historic Brunswig building, vowing to visit La Plaza de Cultura y Artes next time. After hiking back uphill to my car, I followed the scenic route through Chavez Ravine and Elysian Park to return to the freeway. It’s always best to celebrate the dead by spending an energetic day among crowds of the living.